I've had decent luck using engineered lumber on a couple interior walls, but honestly, unless it's a critical area (like kitchen cabinets or tile backing), it's probably overkill for most rooms. Usually, I just shim minor bows—planing feels like too much work for framing lumber. And moisture meters...yeah, guilty of skipping boards after a while too. I mostly eyeball and hope for the best, hasn't bitten me too badly yet...
"Usually, I just shim minor bows—planing feels like too much work for framing lumber."
Agreed, planing framing lumber is definitely extra work most of us don't need... I've found that strategic lighting and finishes can disguise slight imperfections surprisingly well. Ever tried using paint sheen or wallpaper textures to mask minor wall issues?
I get what you mean about lighting and finishes, but honestly, I'd be careful relying too much on wallpaper or sheen to hide bows. I've seen a few walls that looked fine at first glance, but as soon as the sun hit from a certain angle... ouch. Imperfections jumped right out.
Personally, I just shim like crazy and double-check with a long straightedge before drywall goes up. Yeah, it's tedious, but catching it early saves headaches later. Ever had to fix a bowed wall after drywalling? Talk about a nightmare. Learned that lesson the hard way—once was enough for me.
Have you tried using engineered lumber or metal studs in problem areas? Sometimes mixing materials can help keep things straighter without extra fuss.
"Ever had to fix a bowed wall after drywalling? Talk about a nightmare."
Been there... spent an entire weekend tearing out drywall because I rushed the framing. Lesson learned. Curious though, have you found engineered lumber worth the extra cost in smaller projects or just problem spots?
Engineered lumber definitely has its place, but honestly, I think it's overkill for most smaller projects. Sure, it's straighter and more stable, but the cost difference can really add up fast. I've found that if you take your time selecting regular dimensional lumber—actually sorting through the pile at the yard—you can usually find enough straight pieces to get the job done without breaking the bank.
One thing I've noticed is that a lot of bowing issues come down to moisture content and storage conditions. Even engineered lumber isn't immune if it's stored improperly or exposed to humidity swings. A buddy of mine used LVLs for a small partition wall thinking he'd avoid any headaches, but he left them stacked outside under a tarp for a week during rainy weather. By the time he got around to framing, they had warped slightly—not as bad as regular lumber might have, but still noticeable enough to cause drywall headaches later.
Personally, I'd rather invest in better framing techniques and careful material handling than rely solely on engineered products. Blocking between studs, proper bracing during construction, and even just taking extra care with layout and alignment can make a huge difference. I've seen plenty of perfectly straight walls built from standard lumber just because someone took their time and paid attention to detail.
Not knocking engineered lumber entirely—it's fantastic for longer spans or critical load-bearing situations—but for typical interior partitions or smaller-scale framing, it feels like spending extra money without enough payoff. Just my two cents...
