"Blocking helps, sure, but it's not a cure-all."
True enough, but honestly, I've found blocking to be more effective than you're giving it credit for. Yeah, lumber quality matters, but strategic blocking—especially around openings and mid-wall—has saved me from some pretty nasty callbacks. Engineered lumber is great, but budgets don't always allow it. Sometimes a bit of extra blocking and careful bracing can get you close enough without breaking the bank...
Interesting points here, and I'm definitely taking notes. I've been wondering—does blocking placement vary a lot depending on wall height or is it more about spacing evenly regardless? My contractor mentioned something about extra bracing near windows, but honestly, it went over my head at the time. I'm just trying to avoid those wavy walls everyone jokes about...would rather not have my new place looking like a funhouse.
Blocking placement definitely matters, but it's not just about evenly spacing things out. Wall height plays a big role—taller walls usually need more blocking to keep them from bowing or twisting. Think of it like building a bookshelf: the taller it gets, the more shelves (or supports) you need to keep it sturdy.
Your contractor mentioning extra bracing near windows makes sense too. Windows and doors create weak points in your framing, so adding extra blocking around those areas helps distribute stress and keeps everything straight. Usually, you'd place blocking at mid-height for standard walls (around 8-9 feet), but if you're going taller, consider adding another row every 4-5 feet or so.
One trick I've learned over the years is to sight down the wall framing before drywall goes up—just stand at one end and look down the length of it. You'll spot any waves or bows pretty quickly that way...and trust me, it's easier to fix now than after drywall's up and you're staring at a funhouse mirror situation every morning.
"Usually, you'd place blocking at mid-height for standard walls (around 8-9 feet)"
Interesting point, but honestly, I've skipped mid-height blocking on standard walls before and didn't notice much difference. Maybe I got lucky...or maybe it's overkill for shorter walls? Seems like extra material and cost without a huge payoff.
I've skipped blocking a couple times too, and honestly, most walls were fine...but there was this one wall that bowed noticeably after drywall went up. Ended up wishing I'd just thrown in the extra lumber. Guess it depends on luck and lumber quality?
