"Ended up wishing I'd just thrown in the extra lumber. Guess it depends on luck and lumber quality?"
Yeah, lumber quality definitely plays a role, but honestly, it's not just luck. I've seen walls bow even with decent wood because the framing wasn't fully supported. A few years back, I was working on a remodel where the contractor skipped blocking to save time and materials. At first, everything seemed fine, but once we had drywall up and started applying finishes—especially heavier textures and paint—the bowing became painfully obvious. It was subtle at first, but the lighting made it impossible to ignore.
Ever since then, I've been pretty insistent about adding blocking or at least checking straightness thoroughly before drywall goes up. It seems like extra work at first, but it saves headaches down the road when you're trying to hang cabinets or install trim against a wonky wall. So yeah...better safe than sorry, especially if you're picky about finishes.
Yeah, blocking definitely helps, but I've also seen walls bow even with solid blocking if the lumber wasn't dried properly. Had a project last summer where we got a batch of lumber that seemed fine at first, but after a few weeks in the heat, it twisted like crazy.
"It was subtle at first, but the lighting made it impossible to ignore."
Exactly—lighting can really highlight imperfections. Curious if anyone's tried engineered studs or LVLs for framing walls...might be pricier, but could save headaches later?
I've had similar experiences with lumber warping, especially when the humidity swings are extreme. A few years back, I framed out a basement wall using standard studs that looked perfectly straight at the store. After about a month, I noticed a slight bow—nothing major at first—but once drywall went up and lighting was installed, it became painfully obvious. Ended up having to shim and float the drywall mud quite a bit to hide it.
Since then, I've tried engineered studs on a couple of smaller projects. They're definitely pricier upfront, but honestly, the peace of mind is worth it. They stay dead straight and don't seem affected by moisture or temperature changes nearly as much. Haven't used LVLs for wall framing specifically (mostly just headers), but I'd imagine they'd perform similarly well.
One thing to keep in mind though: engineered lumber can be heavier and harder on your tools. Had to upgrade my saw blade after cutting through a bunch of LVLs because they dulled it pretty quickly...just something to factor into your planning if you go that route.
- Totally agree with engineered lumber being more stable—definitely cuts down on callbacks and headaches later.
- That said, I've found standard studs can still work fine if you take a bit more care upfront. I usually let my lumber acclimate for a few days onsite before framing. Doesn't eliminate warping completely, but it reduces surprises.
- Also helps to cherry-pick your studs at the yard. Takes extra time, sure, but saves hassle later. Learned that the hard way after framing a kitchen wall that looked straight...until cabinets went up.
- Engineered stuff is great, but like you mentioned, it's rough on blades and bits. Budgeting for extra blades isn't a huge deal, but it's something clients don't always realize when they push for engineered materials.
- Haven't tried LVLs for studs either—seems overkill to me—but I've used LSL studs in kitchens and baths where tile or cabinetry demands dead-straight walls. Pricey, yeah, but worth it in those critical spots.
Definitely agree on acclimating lumber onsite—it's surprising how many builders skip that step. I've also found that paying attention to moisture content upfront can save a ton of headaches later. A decent moisture meter isn't expensive, and checking studs before framing can catch potential warping early. Engineered lumber's great, but standard studs can still deliver quality walls if you're careful about moisture and selection...just gotta weigh the time vs. cost trade-off.
