Temporary bracing is definitely a lifesaver, but I've also found snapping chalk lines on the floor beforehand helps a ton. Gives you a visual reference to keep things in check as you go. And honestly, sometimes lumber itself is the culprit—warped boards can throw everything off, no matter how careful you are. Learned that the hard way after wrestling with a wall for hours, only to realize one stud was bowed just enough to ruin my day...
Chalk lines definitely help, but I've also found that sorting through lumber beforehand saves a ton of headaches later. Usually, I'll eyeball each stud by looking down its length to spot any obvious bows or twists. If something looks off, I set it aside for blocking or shorter pieces. Also, spacing your temporary braces evenly and checking plumb frequently as you go makes a huge difference. Curious though, anyone tried using metal studs instead? Heard they're straighter but haven't personally given them a shot yet...
Metal studs are definitely straighter, but they come with their own quirks. I've used them a few times—mostly in basements or interior walls—and they're great for keeping things plumb. But honestly, fastening drywall to metal studs can feel a bit fiddly if you're used to wood framing. Plus, insulation and wiring can get tricky... Have you thought about trying engineered lumber like LVLs or LSLs instead? They're pricier but super straight and stable.
- Agree on metal studs being straighter overall, but they're definitely not a silver bullet. I've seen plenty of metal-framed walls that ended up wonky because the installer wasn't familiar with the quirks. Drywall screws slipping around, studs twisting slightly if not properly braced...it can get messy fast.
- Engineered lumber like LVLs or LSLs are solid options, but honestly, they're often overkill for typical interior partitions. Sure, they're dead straight and stable, but the cost difference adds up quickly if you're framing an entire house or even a large basement reno. Unless you're dealing with load-bearing walls or critical alignment issues (like kitchen cabinetry walls), standard dimensional lumber usually does the job just fine.
- One thing I've found helpful is spending a bit more time sorting through lumber at the yard. Yeah, it's tedious, but picking out straighter boards upfront saves headaches later. Also, proper storage on-site makes a huge difference—stacking lumber flat and covered until you're ready to frame helps minimize warping.
- Another trick is to use blocking strategically. Adding horizontal blocking mid-height between studs stiffens the wall significantly and helps keep everything aligned during drywall installation. It also makes wiring and insulation easier since you have defined spaces to work within.
- Speaking of insulation and wiring with metal studs—totally agree it's a pain. Running conduit or armored cable is pretty much mandatory in some jurisdictions, which adds complexity and cost. Wood framing definitely wins here for simplicity.
- Bottom line: metal studs have their place (especially in moisture-prone areas), engineered lumber is great for critical applications, but regular lumber can still deliver straight walls if you take your time and prep properly.
One thing that hasn't come up yet is checking your layout carefully before framing. Even the straightest lumber won't help if your top and bottom plates aren't aligned from the start. I've seen guys rush through snapping chalk lines, only to realize later their walls are wavy because the plates weren't parallel. Taking an extra few minutes to double-check your layout can save hours of frustration later...ask me how I know, haha.
