Do you guys think kiln-dried lumber makes a noticeable difference in stability, or is it more hype than anything? I've had mixed results myself...sometimes great, sometimes still twisty. Curious about your experiences.
Kiln-dried definitely helps, but it's not a miracle cure. Are you checking moisture content yourself once you get it home? I've had lumber labeled "kiln-dried" that was still surprisingly damp inside...made a huge difference when I started double-checking with a moisture meter. Also, how are you storing it before building? Even good lumber can warp if it's stacked poorly or exposed to humidity swings. Maybe tweaking storage or giving it some acclimation time could smooth things out? Just some thoughts.
Definitely agree that kiln-dried lumber isn't always the silver bullet people think it is. A few thoughts from my own experience:
- Moisture meters are a game changer. I've had lumber that was labeled kiln-dried but still clocked in at 15-18% moisture content. Ideally, you want it closer to 8-12% for most framing and interior work. Checking it yourself can save a lot of headaches down the line.
- Storage matters more than most people realize. Even properly dried lumber can warp if it's stacked unevenly or left exposed to humidity swings. I usually stack mine flat with spacers (stickers) every couple feet to allow airflow. Keeping it off concrete floors and away from direct sunlight or moisture sources helps too.
- Another thing I've noticed is that even good lumber needs some acclimation time, especially if your shop or build site has different humidity levels than where the wood was stored previously. Letting it sit stacked properly for a week or two before building can make a noticeable difference.
- Also, consider your fastening methods. Sometimes walls can twist or bow slightly if you're relying solely on nails. I've found using screws strategically at corners and critical joints helps keep things straighter overall.
One minor disagreement though—sometimes even with perfect storage and moisture control, you'll still get a few stubborn boards that just won't stay straight. Wood is organic, after all...it's part of the charm (and frustration!) of building with natural materials.
Anyway, hope some of this helps smooth things out for your next project.
Good points overall, especially about moisture meters—I swear by mine now after learning the hard way. But I'd push back a bit on the idea of using screws for framing walls.
"I've found using screws strategically at corners and critical joints helps keep things straighter overall."
In my experience, screws can sometimes be more trouble than they're worth when framing. Sure, they're great for pulling things tight initially, but they don't handle shear forces as well as nails do. I've seen screws snap under stress or when the wood moves slightly over time, especially if you're using standard construction screws instead of structural ones. Nails have a bit more flex and are actually designed to handle that kind of movement better in the long run.
If you're having issues with walls twisting or bowing, it might be worth double-checking your bracing methods or even looking into engineered lumber options like LVLs or LSLs for critical areas. They're pricier, yeah, but they're dimensionally stable and can save you from headaches down the road. I've had good luck using engineered studs around door and window openings—keeps everything nice and square.
Also, totally agree on acclimating lumber, but sometimes the timeline just doesn't allow it. When that's the case, I usually try to order lumber from a local yard that's already storing it indoors rather than big-box stores where it's been sitting outside in the elements. Not foolproof, but it helps.
And yeah, you're spot-on about wood being organic and unpredictable at times...part of why I love working with it, even if it drives me nuts occasionally.
