Went through this exact debate when we built our place last year. A few things I learned along the way:
- Engineered hardwood can definitely handle radiant heat, but like you said, humidity control is critical. We invested in a whole-home humidifier/dehumidifier setup and it's been a lifesaver.
- Proper acclimation is no joke—our installer insisted on leaving the flooring in the house for almost two weeks before installation. Felt excessive at the time, but zero issues so far.
- Tile was tempting for peace of mind, but we really wanted that warm wood feel underfoot... glad we stuck with hardwood in the end.
Interesting points, especially about acclimation. I've seen installations rushed after just a few days of acclimation, and the results weren't pretty—cupping and gaps everywhere. The two-week period your installer recommended sounds cautious, but honestly, better safe than sorry with engineered hardwood. One thing I'd add is to pay attention to the subfloor moisture levels too. Even the best humidity control won't help if the slab or subfloor is still releasing moisture... learned that one the hard way myself.
Good call on the subfloor moisture—it's often overlooked. Have you ever used a moisture barrier or sealant directly on the slab before laying down engineered hardwood? I found that even after waiting a couple weeks for acclimation, moisture seepage from below can still cause trouble later on. Also curious if anyone's tried moisture meters for concrete slabs specifically... heard mixed things, but never tested one myself.
I've never fully trusted moisture meters on concrete slabs myself. Had a buddy swear by one, spent decent money on it too, but when we tested it side-by-side with another brand, the readings were all over the place. Made me skeptical ever since.
As for moisture barriers, I learned the hard way. First time I laid engineered hardwood directly onto a slab, I figured acclimation was enough—big mistake. Within a year, boards started cupping and warping in spots. Ended up ripping half of it out and redoing it with a proper moisture barrier underneath. Used a roll-on sealant the second time around (think it was RedGard or something similar), and it's held up great for years now.
Honestly, even if your slab seems dry as a bone, I'd still recommend some kind of barrier or sealant. Concrete can be sneaky like that...
Had a similar experience myself. We relied heavily on moisture meters for a commercial project a few years back, and the inconsistency between brands was pretty frustrating. Ended up bringing in a flooring consultant who recommended a calcium chloride test instead—turned out our slab was nowhere near as dry as the meters suggested. Since then, I've always insisted on physical moisture barriers or sealants, regardless of meter readings. Concrete really can fool you sometimes...
