Yeah, totally agree—if you’re already ripping off the roof, might as well check what’s going on underneath. I’ve seen folks skip the venting or insulation upgrades and regret it later when energy bills spike or mold shows up. It’s one of those things that stings upfront but saves headaches down the line.
Title: Need advice on replacing an old leaky roof
Can’t stress this enough—when we redid our roof last year, I figured “just fix the leaks and call it a day.” Big mistake. Pulled up the old shingles and found soggy insulation and zero ventilation in half the attic. Ended up biting the bullet and upgrading both. Not cheap, but our heating bill dropped and the house actually feels less stuffy now. Skipping that stuff just isn’t worth it, even if it stings your wallet at first.
“just fix the leaks and call it a day.” Big mistake. Pulled up the old shingles and found soggy insulation and zero ventilation in half the attic.
That hits home. I thought about just patching the worst spots on mine, but once you start peeling things back, you realize how much is hiding under there. Ventilation especially gets overlooked—people think it’s just about leaks, but poor airflow can wreck your attic over time. I’d argue it’s almost as important as the shingles themselves. If you’re already up there, might as well do it right, even if it hurts the budget a bit. I learned that lesson the hard way too.
Yeah, ventilation gets way less attention than it deserves. I used to think as long as the roof wasn’t leaking, I was good. But after helping a friend redo his, we found mold creeping along the rafters and insulation that was basically a sponge. It’s wild how much damage you can get from just not moving enough air up there.
If you’re already tearing into things, it’s worth taking a step-by-step approach:
1. Once the shingles are off, check for any signs of rot or mold on the decking and rafters—fix those before anything else.
2. Look at your insulation. If it’s wet or compacted, it’s gotta go. Wet insulation is useless and will just keep causing problems.
3. For ventilation, I’d suggest looking at both intake (like soffit vents) and exhaust (ridge vents or gable vents). You want air coming in low and out high to keep things circulating.
4. When you put down new underlayment, consider something with a radiant barrier if you’re in a hot climate—it can help with energy bills down the line.
5. And yeah, it’s tempting to save money by skipping some of this stuff, but honestly, fixing poor airflow or hidden rot later is way more expensive.
One thing I’ll add: sometimes contractors will say “your attic doesn’t need more vents” just to keep things simple for themselves. But codes change and every house is different—don’t be afraid to double-check what’s actually needed for your space.
I know budgets get tight fast with roofs, but treating ventilation as optional is what got me in trouble years ago. It’s one of those “pay now or pay more later” deals... not fun either way, but at least doing it right means you won’t have to mess with it again for a long time.
And hey, if you’re redoing insulation anyway, maybe look into blown-in cellulose or even recycled denim? Costs a bit more up front but makes a difference in comfort and energy use over time. Just my two cents—sometimes those little upgrades pay off bigger than you expect.
You nailed it—ventilation is one of those behind-the-scenes things that makes a massive difference, but barely anyone talks about it until there’s a problem. I’ve seen folks spend a fortune on fancy shingles and then cheap out on vents, only to end up with warped wood and crazy energy bills. The bit about radiant barriers is spot on too; I put one in during my last reno and the upstairs actually became livable in August. Upgrades like cellulose insulation might feel like a splurge, but in the long run, comfort and peace of mind are worth every penny. You’re definitely steering things in the right direction.
