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Need advice on replacing an old leaky roof

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photography_aspen2484
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(@photography_aspen2484)
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“If you’re already opening things up, it’s worth poking around before sealing everything tight. Sometimes you find surprises you’d rather deal with now than later...”

Couldn’t agree more, but I’ll admit, sometimes I wonder if we go a little overboard with the “while you’re in there” approach. On my last project, I ended up replacing way more sheathing than planned—felt like I was chasing rot across the whole roof. Still, you’re right: better to face those headaches now than rip into finished walls down the line. Spray foam is a beast for air sealing, but it’s definitely not friendly to future changes. Sometimes I wish there was a luxury option that was both airtight and easy to remove...


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(@zeusp66)
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Title: Need advice on replacing an old leaky roof

Yeah, the “while you’re in there” rabbit hole is real. I get the temptation to just patch what’s visible and move on, but every time I’ve tried that, it’s come back to bite me. Hidden rot, sketchy insulation, you name it. Still, I hear you—sometimes it feels like you’re demo’ing half the house for a small fix.

Spray foam is a double-edged sword. It’s fantastic for air sealing and energy savings, but if you ever need to run a new wire or fix a leak, good luck. I wish there was a product that sealed like foam but could be peeled off in big sheets when you needed access. Until then, I lean toward dense-pack cellulose or mineral wool where I can, even if it’s not quite as tight. At least you can get back in there without a Sawzall.

Honestly, I’d rather deal with a little extra work now than gamble on what’s hiding behind a sealed-up mess. But yeah, sometimes it feels like you’re opening Pandora’s box...


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barbara_turner
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Yeah, that’s the thing—once you start peeling back layers, it’s hard to know where to stop. I’ve seen roofs where the decking looked fine from below, but once the shingles came off, it was Swiss cheese up there. When you’re weighing insulation options, do you factor in future access for repairs, or just go for max efficiency? Sometimes I wonder if it’s worth trading a little R-value for peace of mind down the road...


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karenrain861
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When you’re weighing insulation options, do you factor in future access for repairs, or just go for max efficiency? Sometimes I wonder if it’s worth trading a little R-value for peace of mind down the road...

That’s a tough call. I’ve gone both ways depending on the house and what kind of work I was willing to tackle later. For my last roof, I actually held back on spray foam because I didn’t want to make it impossible to get at the rafters if something went wrong. Sure, I gave up a bit of R-value, but like you said—peace of mind matters when you’re the one who has to crawl up there and fix it.

One thing I keep circling back to is how unpredictable things get once you open up an old roof. Even with “max efficiency” insulation, if there’s a leak and you can’t access it easily, you’re stuck tearing out all your hard work anyway. Is it really worth squeezing out every last bit of efficiency if you might have to rip it out in five years? Maybe not.

Curious—has anyone tried those insulated nailbase panels? I’ve heard they strike a balance between access and performance, but haven’t seen them in action yet.


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christopher_nelson
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Tried nailbase panels on a retrofit last year, actually. They were a bit pricier up front, but I liked that they kept the insulation continuous above the roof deck—no thermal bridging. Access-wise, it’s definitely easier than dealing with spray foam between rafters if you ever need to get in there. One thing: you still have to plan for penetrations and flashing details, or water will find its way in no matter what you use. Wouldn’t call them perfect, but they’re a solid middle ground if you want both efficiency and future access.


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