MAKING THE SWITCH TO WATER-SAVING TOILETS: WORTH IT?
If you’re handy at all, keep a spare flush valve kit around. Ours needed a swap after about 18 months, but it was a $12 fix and took maybe 10 minutes.
That’s the thing—maintenance is just part of the deal now. I swapped out a flapper on ours after a year, but honestly, it was easier than fixing the old chain-style ones. I do miss the “thunk” too, but not the water bill. If you pick a solid model, they’re fine. Just don’t go for the absolute cheapest one or you’ll regret it.
MAKING THE SWITCH TO WATER-SAVING TOILETS: WORTH IT?
I hear you on the maintenance. Honestly, I’ve installed a bunch of these in rental units and yeah, you’re gonna be changing parts now and then. But compared to the old-school toilets that could practically flush a small animal, these are way less hassle in the long run. The trick is picking one with decent reviews—some of the bargain-bin models just don’t cut it. Still, not missing those sky-high water bills... even if the flush isn’t as satisfying.
MAKING THE SWITCH TO WATER-SAVING TOILETS: WORTH IT?
I get what you mean about the flush not being as “satisfying”—the old 3.5+ gallon tanks definitely had some power behind them. But honestly, most of the modern 1.28 GPF models do a decent job if you stick with reputable brands. I’ve put in a few Toto Drakes and American Standards over the years, and they’ve held up better than the cheaper ones from big box stores.
Maintenance-wise, yeah, you’ll probably swap out a flapper or fill valve every few years, but that’s pretty standard. The real pain is when you go ultra-low flow (like 0.8 GPF) and end up with double flushes or clogs—definitely not worth the hassle unless your plumbing is newer and can handle it.
Honestly, the water savings add up fast, especially if you’ve got a big household. I’d just avoid the rock-bottom models and check for MaP scores above 800g. That’s saved me some headaches... and a few plumber calls.
MAKING THE SWITCH TO WATER-SAVING TOILETS: WORTH IT?
Yeah, the older toilets had that “whoosh” factor, but honestly, I’ve seen the newer 1.28 GPF models outperform some of the old ones, especially when you go with a solid brand. One thing I’ve noticed—install quality really matters. If the flange isn’t set right or the supply line’s off, even the best toilet can be a headache. I’d echo what you said about avoiding the super low flow unless your pipes are up to it. Water savings are real, though, especially in bigger homes. Just don’t cheap out on install or parts... that’s where most issues start.
MAKING THE SWITCH TO WATER-SAVING TOILETS: WORTH IT?
If the flange isn’t set right or the supply line’s off, even the best toilet can be a headache.
That’s the truth. I’ve had a couple projects where the client wanted to swap out all the old 3.5 GPF units for the newer 1.28s, and the difference in performance really came down to the install. One house, we had to redo the flange height because the original builder set it too low—caused constant leaks and rocking. Once we fixed that, the new toilet worked like a charm.
I’ll say, though, not every “water-saving” model is created equal. Some of the bargain brands just don’t clear the bowl well, and you end up flushing twice, which defeats the whole point. I usually steer folks toward Toto or Kohler—never had a callback on those.
And yeah, pipe size matters. In older homes with narrower lines, sometimes you get slow drains if you go too low-flow. It’s not always a plug-and-play upgrade, but when it’s done right, you really do see the water bill drop. Just gotta pay attention to the details.
