Went through something similar last summer when we renovated our kitchen. Lumber was all over the place—some boards were great, others twisted like pretzels within days. I tried stacking and weighting too, and it definitely helped, but honestly, what made the biggest difference for me was just slowing down a bit and being super selective about each board as I framed.
I ended up using engineered studs for a few critical spots (like around cabinets and windows), and man, that saved me a ton of headaches later on. They're pricier upfront, sure, but worth it for peace of mind. Also learned the hard way to avoid leaving lumber sitting around in direct sun or damp ground—even kiln-dried stuff can warp surprisingly fast if conditions aren't ideal.
Anyway, hang in there... framing can be frustrating when your materials won't cooperate, but you'll get there eventually.
Totally agree on engineered studs—especially for critical framing around openings. I've seen way too many kitchen remodels end up with cabinets out of alignment because someone tried to save a few bucks on framing materials. One thing I'd add: pay close attention to moisture content. Even kiln-dried lumber can vary wildly, and picking up a cheap moisture meter can really help avoid surprises down the line. Learned that lesson after a client's wall bowed noticeably within weeks of drywall going up... not fun.
Good points on moisture content—it's surprising how often that's overlooked. I've found that even when moisture levels are controlled, walls can still shift slightly due to seasonal humidity changes. Has anyone experimented with advanced framing techniques (like 24-inch spacing or single top plates) to reduce lumber use and minimize movement? Curious if you've noticed any difference in wall stability or alignment issues compared to traditional framing methods...
I've looked into advanced framing myself, and while the reduced lumber use is appealing, I'm skeptical about its impact on wall stability. With 24-inch spacing, I've noticed drywall can sometimes flex or bow slightly, especially if you're hanging heavier items or cabinetry. Single top plates might also pose alignment challenges when you're spanning longer walls or tying into existing structures... Personally, I'd weigh those potential trade-offs carefully before fully committing to advanced framing techniques.
I've done a few builds with advanced framing, and yeah, drywall flex can be a thing. A couple quick thoughts:
- Blocking is your friend—strategically placed blocking between studs helps a ton with drywall stability, especially behind cabinets or heavy shelves.
- Single top plates can be tricky, but careful layout and alignment checks early on save headaches later. Learned that the hard way...
- Honestly, mixing traditional framing in critical areas (like kitchen walls) with advanced framing elsewhere can give you the best of both worlds.
Just my two cents from trial and error.
