If it helps, I managed to save a bit by only swapping out the first outlet in each “chain”—the rest downstream are protected, so you don’t have to buy a GFCI for every single spot.
That’s exactly what I did when I had to update my kitchen and bathroom outlets last year. The price of those GFCI outlets adds up fast, especially if you’re looking at every single one. I remember standing in the aisle at the hardware store, calculator out, just shaking my head at how much it was going to cost if I didn’t figure out the “first in line” trick.
Honestly, though, I still wonder—are inspectors really okay with just the first outlet being GFCI and labeling the rest? Or is it just a “good enough” solution for older houses? My neighbor swears his inspector made him put GFCIs in every single spot, but maybe that’s just local code differences or he got unlucky with a stickler.
I totally get your frustration with figuring out which ones actually need it. I ended up flipping breakers and plugging in a lamp to see which outlets went dark together... not exactly scientific, but it worked. Did you have any issues with tripping after you wired them? Mine would trip randomly until I realized I mixed up the line and load wires on the first try. Rookie move.
It’s wild how much more expensive things get when you try to do things “by the book.” Honestly, sometimes I wonder if it’s all about safety or just another way for manufacturers to sell more stuff. Not saying GFCIs aren’t important—they definitely are—but yeah, budget-wise, it stings.
Curious if anyone else ran into weird wiring surprises behind their old outlets? My house was built in the 70s and some of those boxes were like a puzzle from another planet...
Title: Why does every outlet in my house need to be GFCI now?
Honestly, I get the whole “first in the chain” approach, but I’ve seen enough jobs where that setup backfires—especially if someone down the road taps into the circuit and doesn’t realize they’re bypassing GFCI protection. I know it’s code-approved in a lot of places, but I can’t help feeling one GFCI per spot is just more foolproof, especially in kitchens where things get reconfigured over time. Sure, it costs more upfront, but I’ve seen folks save a few bucks and end up with a safety issue later. And yeah, those 70s boxes... sometimes you find three different wire colors and a mystery switch that does nothing.
sometimes you find three different wire colors and a mystery switch that does nothing.
Man, you just described my last kitchen reno. I swear those old boxes are like electrical escape rooms. I get what you’re saying about one GFCI per outlet being foolproof, but sometimes those boxes are too shallow for the big GFCI units, especially in 70s houses. Ever try cramming a GFCI and three wires in there? It’s like Tetris with higher stakes. I do agree—if you can swing it, individual GFCIs make tracing issues way easier... but sometimes practicality wins over perfection.
Ever try cramming a GFCI and three wires in there? It’s like Tetris with higher stakes.
Yeah, those old boxes are a nightmare. What I’ve found works best is mapping out the whole circuit before swapping anything—sometimes you can get away with a GFCI at the start of the run to protect downstream outlets, which saves some space. Not perfect, but when you’re dealing with shallow metal boxes from the 70s, it’s usually about finding the least-bad solution. If you do need to fit a bigger device, sometimes an old-work box swap is worth it... but that opens up a whole other can of worms with drywall and tile.
Honestly, I feel your pain—those tiny old boxes are brutal. I’ve had to get creative a few times and yeah, sometimes you just have to pick the “least-worst” option. Mapping out the circuit first is smart, especially if you want to avoid tearing into walls unnecessarily. Ever notice how some of those old boxes seem to shrink even more once you start adding modern devices? It’s like they were designed for a different era. You’re definitely not alone in this struggle.
