NEED ADVICE ON REPLACING AN OLD LEAKY ROOF
I’d say roof shape is a bigger deal than most people think. My last place had a weird combo of gables and valleys, and it made the whole replacement process more complicated (and expensive) than just measuring square footage. Also, if you’ve got dormers or skylights, those can be leak magnets if not flashed right. I’d double-check that whoever you hire has experience with your specific roof style... learned that the hard way.
NEED ADVICE ON REPLACING AN OLD LEAKY ROOF
- Roof shape really does change the game, especially with valleys and weird angles—flashing can get tricky fast.
- Skylights and dormers are notorious for leaks if the installer rushes or skips steps.
- I’d add: check what kind of underlayment they’re using, not just shingles. Some folks cut corners there and it bites you later.
- Out of curiosity, has anyone here tried tackling their own flashing repairs before calling in the pros? Sometimes I wonder if it’s worth attempting on a small section...
Out of curiosity, has anyone here tried tackling their own flashing repairs before calling in the pros?
Tried it once on my old bungalow—let’s just say my “fix” lasted about as long as a cheap umbrella in a windstorm. Those valleys and weird angles are no joke. I thought I could handle a small patch near a dormer, but water found its way in anyway. Ended up with a stained ceiling and a lesson learned: sometimes it’s worth paying for the pro job, especially if you care about what’s underneath (like your hardwood floors). But hey, at least I got a story out of it...
sometimes it’s worth paying for the pro job, especially if you care about what’s underneath (like your hardwood floors)
Fair point, but I’ve seen some homeowners do a decent job with flashing if they take their time and really research the details. Not saying it’s easy—those valleys are tricky—but with patience, it’s doable for some folks. Ever try using those pre-formed flashing pieces? They can help a lot with awkward angles.
PRE-FORMED FLASHING VS. CUSTOM: WHAT’S REALLY “GOOD ENOUGH”?
I get the appeal of pre-formed flashing, especially for DIYers. It’s like the IKEA of roofing—makes you feel like you’ve got it all figured out until you realize your roof isn’t quite as square as the instructions assume. I’ve helped a neighbor patch up a leaky dormer once using those prefab pieces, and it was…well, let’s just say it looked tidy from the ground. But after the first big rain, water found its way in right at the seam where the pre-formed piece met the old roof deck. Turns out, there was a slight dip in the decking that the rigid flashing couldn’t hug, so water just pooled and snuck underneath.
That’s where I get a little cautious about “good enough” with flashing, especially if you’re trying to protect something like original hardwood floors or old plaster ceilings. Water has a way of finding the tiniest slip-up. I’m all for folks learning new skills—I’ve done my share of YouTube crash courses—but there’s a reason pros spend so much time fussing over custom-bent metal and layering details. Sometimes it’s not about how neat it looks but how it handles weird roof geometry or those little sags you don’t notice until it’s too late.
If you’re set on DIY, I’d say at least invest in a decent brake and try bending your own flashing to fit every odd angle. It’s a bit more work upfront, but you can really dial in the fit. And don’t skimp on the underlayment either—ice and water shield is your friend, especially in valleys and along eaves.
Not saying homeowners can’t pull it off, but I’ve seen more than one “decent job” turn into a bigger headache down the line when water starts creeping in. Just my two cents from watching a few too many “quick fixes” get revisited after the first storm season.