I’ve had a similar issue with dormers—flashing is always the weak spot, especially on older homes where nothing’s quite square. I’d add that if you’re going with metal, make sure your installer has experience with historic houses. Not everyone gets the details right.
Title: Need advice on replacing an old leaky roof
Yeah, dormers are tricky—especially the ones that look charming but are just a maze of weird angles and old wood underneath. Flashing is always the first thing I check when someone tells me about leaks near dormers or valleys. It’s like, you can have the best shingles in the world, but if the flashing’s off by even a little bit, water finds its way in. Older houses especially seem to have their own set of “rules,” right? Nothing’s plumb, nothing’s level. I’ve seen some pretty wild fixes over the years—one time I found someone had used actual tar paper and a ton of caulk as a “solution.” That was fun to clean up.
I hear you on the metal install. It’s not just about slapping it up there; it’s almost an art form when you’re working with historic details. Some folks get too focused on speed and miss those little transitions where dormer meets roof or where siding tucks under flashing. The devil’s always in the details.
It can be a headache, but honestly, it’s also kind of rewarding when you see it come together and know you’ve given that old house a fighting chance for another twenty years (or more). Finding someone who gets that—who’ll take their time with the quirks—is worth every penny. And hey, sometimes those imperfections end up being what gives the place its character anyway.
Don’t get discouraged if you hit a few snags along the way. Old roofs have stories to tell, and fixing them up right is sort of like collaborating with the past. Just gotta roll with it sometimes...
Couldn’t agree more about the flashing—if that’s not perfect, you’re just asking for trouble. When I did mine, I started by stripping everything down to bare wood, checked for rot, then went heavy on ice and water shield before even thinking about shingles. If you’re dealing with dormers, don’t rush those corners. I had to redo one spot where I thought “good enough” would cut it… it didn’t. Take your time, especially around valleys and any weird angles. Old houses will test your patience, but if you do it right, you won’t be back up there fixing leaks every spring.
Yeah, those corners and valleys are where things get dicey. I was skeptical about how much difference the ice and water shield would make, but after seeing a neighbor skip it and end up with a soggy ceiling, I’m convinced it’s worth the extra effort. One thing I’d add—don’t trust that the old wood is fine just because it “looks okay.” I found some soft spots under what looked like solid decking. Old houses hide stuff, for sure.
One thing I’d add—don’t trust that the old wood is fine just because it “looks okay.”
Couldn’t agree more. I’ve seen “good” decking turn to mush once you start pulling shingles. It’s tempting to save a few bucks, but cutting corners on prep always bites you later. Those hidden soft spots are dealbreakers for long-term value.