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Need advice on replacing an old leaky roof

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alexmoore916
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(@alexmoore916)
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Those dormers are always the troublemakers, aren’t they? I’ve seen folks try every flashing trick in the book, but it seems like water always finds a way in after a few freeze-thaw cycles.

- Couldn’t agree more—dormers are where all my roof headaches start. Even with solid craftsmanship, those weird angles and old lumber just seem to invite leaks.
- Peel-and-stick membrane under the metal is definitely the way to go. I’ve tried skipping it to save a few bucks, but every time, I end up regretting it. Water just loves to sneak in wherever it can.
- One thing I’d add: don’t skimp on prepping the wood underneath. If there’s any rot or soft spots around the dormer, even the best flashing won’t save you. I had to sister in some new rafters last time because the old ones were so out of square, nothing lined up right.
- For me, ice & water shield goes up at least 18" past every valley and dormer edge. Might be overkill, but after dealing with a nasty leak that ruined a bedroom ceiling, I’m not taking chances.
- If you’re working with old framing that’s out of whack, sometimes you just have to custom-bend your flashing on site. Pre-bent stuff rarely fits right on these old houses.
- One trick I picked up: run a bead of high-quality sealant (like NP1 or similar) behind the flashing where it meets siding or trim—not as a primary defense, but as backup if water ever gets past the metal.

Honestly, creative problem-solving is half the battle on these projects. Every roof’s got its own personality... and sometimes a bad attitude.


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