Chatbot Avatar

AI Chatbot

Ask me anything about our forum!

v1.0.0
Notifications
Clear all

Need advice on replacing an old leaky roof

1,744 Posts
1486 Users
0 Reactions
74.1 K Views
Posts: 0
(@alexmoore916)
New Member
Joined:

Those dormers are always the troublemakers, aren’t they? I’ve seen folks try every flashing trick in the book, but it seems like water always finds a way in after a few freeze-thaw cycles.

- Couldn’t agree more—dormers are where all my roof headaches start. Even with solid craftsmanship, those weird angles and old lumber just seem to invite leaks.
- Peel-and-stick membrane under the metal is definitely the way to go. I’ve tried skipping it to save a few bucks, but every time, I end up regretting it. Water just loves to sneak in wherever it can.
- One thing I’d add: don’t skimp on prepping the wood underneath. If there’s any rot or soft spots around the dormer, even the best flashing won’t save you. I had to sister in some new rafters last time because the old ones were so out of square, nothing lined up right.
- For me, ice & water shield goes up at least 18" past every valley and dormer edge. Might be overkill, but after dealing with a nasty leak that ruined a bedroom ceiling, I’m not taking chances.
- If you’re working with old framing that’s out of whack, sometimes you just have to custom-bend your flashing on site. Pre-bent stuff rarely fits right on these old houses.
- One trick I picked up: run a bead of high-quality sealant (like NP1 or similar) behind the flashing where it meets siding or trim—not as a primary defense, but as backup if water ever gets past the metal.

Honestly, creative problem-solving is half the battle on these projects. Every roof’s got its own personality... and sometimes a bad attitude.


Reply
Posts: 0
(@phoenixdreamer155)
New Member
Joined:

Yeah, you nailed it—dormers are a pain, and skipping the membrane is just asking for trouble. I’d add that using recycled or FSC-certified lumber when replacing rafters can help with sustainability, but only if it’s solid and dry. Also, I’ve found that venting around dormers is often overlooked. Without proper airflow, you’re just trapping moisture and speeding up rot. Not glamorous work, but it pays off in the long run.


Reply
Posts: 0
(@artist82)
New Member
Joined:

Couldn’t agree more about venting—people focus on the flashy stuff and forget that airflow is what keeps everything from rotting out. I’d add, if you’re going for recycled or FSC lumber, double-check for old fasteners or hidden damage. Seen too many “green” projects get derailed by overlooked defects. Also, don’t skimp on flashing around those dormers... water finds every weakness, every time.


Reply
Posts: 0
(@cathym14)
New Member
Joined:

“don’t skimp on flashing around those dormers... water finds every weakness, every time.”

- Not sure I’m totally sold on the “more flashing is always better” angle. Seen a few high-end jobs where over-flashing actually trapped moisture and made things worse. Sometimes less is more, especially if you’re using modern membranes that do the heavy lifting.
- On the recycled/FSC lumber—yeah, defects are a risk, but honestly, I’ve had just as many issues with “premium” new stock warping or splitting after install. It’s not always about age or being green; sometimes it’s just luck of the draw.
- Venting is critical, but I’d argue insulation gets overlooked too. Too much airflow and you’re losing efficiency (and money). There’s a balance—tight envelope, smart venting, not just max airflow everywhere.
- One thing nobody mentions: gutters. If your roof leaks but your gutters are dumping water against the fascia, you’re fighting a losing battle.

Just my two cents from seeing a lot of “luxury” roofs go sideways for reasons nobody expected...


Reply
Posts: 0
(@food_mario1559)
New Member
Joined:

Funny you mention gutters—when I pulled off my old shingles, I found rot right where the downspout had been splashing back for years. Fixed the leak, but it was the gutter all along causing the mess.

I’ve also gone back and forth on the insulation vs. venting thing. Tried to max out attic insulation last time, but ended up with condensation issues because I didn’t leave enough airflow at the eaves. It’s a fine line.

Curious if anyone’s tried those newer self-adhering membranes under metal roofs? I’m debating if it’s worth the extra cost or just stick with the classic felt and ice & water shield combo.

Also—has anyone had luck with those gutter guards, or are they more hassle than they’re worth? My neighbor swears by them, but I’m skeptical...


Reply
Page 283 / 349
Share:
Scroll to Top