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Brick veneer or real brick walls - worth the extra hassle?
Definitely agree with you on the flashing details - seen that issue pop up more than once. A few other things I've noticed:
- Brick veneer itself isn't usually the villain; it's almost always about the installation. I've seen jobs where the mortar joints weren't properly tooled, allowing water to seep back behind the veneer.
- Also, air gaps are crucial. Had a project once where the contractor skimped on the gap between the veneer and sheathing, thinking it didn't matter much. Guess what? Moisture built up behind there and caused some nasty rot.
- Real brick walls can be great for durability and thermal mass, but honestly, they're not immune to moisture issues either. Proper drainage and ventilation matter just as much there.
Seems like no matter which way you go, attention to detail at installation is key. Curious if anyone's had experience with drainage mats behind veneers - heard mixed opinions on whether they're worth it or just an extra expense...
You're spot-on about installation details making or breaking brick veneer. Had a similar experience with a renovation - contractor skipped the drainage mat, thinking it was just marketing fluff. Fast forward two years, and we were tearing out sections due to moisture buildup. Lesson learned: drainage mats might seem like an extra expense upfront, but they can save you headaches (and wallet aches) down the road...
Had a similar issue myself - contractor insisted drainage mats were just upselling gimmicks. I pushed back, glad I did. Couple quick points from experience:
- Drainage mats aren't fluff; they're critical for moisture control behind veneers.
- Proper flashing and weep holes matter just as much - don't skimp there either.
- Real brick walls can be great, but veneer done right is usually enough (and cheaper).
Bottom line: installation details aren't the place to cut corners.
Good points overall, but I'd add a couple things from my own experience. Drainage mats definitely aren't gimmicks, but they're also not magic. I've seen jobs where people slap them up carelessly and think they're good to go - nope. You gotta make sure they're installed correctly, seams overlapped properly, and secured well. Otherwise, you're just creating expensive wallpaper behind your bricks.
Also, real brick walls do have their perks beyond aesthetics. They offer better thermal mass and can help regulate indoor temperatures if done right. But honestly, for most residential projects, veneer is plenty good enough - IF you nail the details like flashing and weep holes (like you mentioned). I've seen some pretty sketchy veneer installs that ended up causing moisture nightmares down the road...not fun.
Bottom line: whichever route you choose, don't trust blindly that your contractor knows best. Ask questions, double-check their work, and don't be afraid to push back a little. It's your house after all.
"Otherwise, you're just creating expensive wallpaper behind your bricks."
Haha, couldn't agree more with this. I've seen way too many jobs where folks thought drainage mats alone would magically solve everything. Honestly, brick veneer done right is solid enough for most homes - just pay attention to flashing details and weep holes. Real brick walls are nice, sure, but the extra cost and hassle usually aren't justified unless you're going for something pretty specific or custom...
"Honestly, brick veneer done right is solid enough for most homes - just pay attention to flashing details and weep holes."
Yeah, I was skeptical at first too, but after doing some research and talking to a few contractors, I went with brick veneer on my place. It's been about four years now, and honestly, zero regrets. Real brick would've blown my budget, and the veneer still looks great. As long as you get someone who knows their stuff, it's totally worth saving the extra cash...
"Yeah, I was skeptical at first too, but after doing some research and talking to a few contractors, I went with brick veneer on my place."
Glad it worked out for you! I've had brick veneer on my house for about 12 years now, and it's held up surprisingly well. One thing I'd add - make sure you keep an eye on the mortar joints every few years. Even though it's veneer, weather can still cause minor cracking or deterioration over time. I usually do a quick walk-around inspection every spring, just checking for any loose bricks or cracks in the mortar. If you catch issues early, they're pretty easy to patch up yourself with some mortar mix from the hardware store.
One thing I've wondered about though... has anyone here had experience with insulating behind brick veneer? When we did ours, insulation wasn't really discussed much, but lately I've been thinking about energy efficiency and wondering if there's a practical way to retrofit insulation without tearing everything apart.
If you catch issues early, they're pretty easy to patch up yourself with some mortar mix from the hardware store. One thing I've wondered about though...
Retrofitting insulation behind brick veneer can be tricky without major demo, honestly. I've seen some folks use blown-in insulation through small drilled holes, but results vary. Might be worth checking with an insulation specialist before committing - could save you headaches down the road.
I've seen blown-in insulation work pretty well, but you're right - results can be hit or miss depending on how evenly it fills the cavity. One trick I've found helpful is to drill small test holes first in less visible spots to gauge how much space you've got behind the veneer. Also, make sure you're using a moisture-resistant insulation material, since brick can wick moisture inward sometimes...better safe than sorry.
Good call on the moisture-resistant insulation - brick can definitely surprise you with how much moisture it pulls in. I've had mixed results myself with blown-in insulation behind brick veneer. One time, I drilled test holes like you mentioned, thought I had it all figured out, but still ended up with a couple cold spots. Turns out the cavity wasn't as uniform as I assumed. Still, your method of checking first in less visible areas is smart...wish I'd thought of that earlier. Brick veneer can be tricky, but when done right, it's worth the hassle. Real brick walls are obviously sturdier, but the veneer route saves a lot of headaches if you're retrofitting an older home. Either way, sounds like you're on the right track.
Interesting points about the insulation and moisture issues. I'm actually in the middle of deciding between brick veneer and real brick walls myself, mostly because of budget constraints. Have you found that the cost difference between veneer and solid brick walls is justified by durability or insulation performance? I mean, veneer seems easier to retrofit, but does it hold up as well over time?
I ask because my neighbor went with veneer a few years back, and he's already had some minor cracking issues - nothing major, but enough to make me wonder if it's common or just bad luck. Also, how tricky is it to fix cold spots after installation? Is it something you can DIY easily, or does it usually require professional help? Just trying to avoid any hidden costs down the road...
"I ask because my neighbor went with veneer a few years back, and he's already had some minor cracking issues - nothing major, but enough to make me wonder if it's common or just bad luck."
Honestly, I've seen similar things happen. My brother-in-law went with brick veneer about five years ago, and while it looks fantastic from the curb, he's had to patch up a few hairline cracks already. Nothing catastrophic, but enough to annoy him every time he notices them. Solid brick walls definitely seem sturdier long-term, but the upfront cost can sting. As for cold spots... DIY insulation fixes can be hit or miss - depends how handy you are and how accessible the trouble spots are.
I've noticed veneer cracking issues pop up fairly often, actually. Had a client a couple years back who went with brick veneer to save some cash, and within two winters he started noticing those tiny hairline cracks you're talking about. Nothing structural, but enough to bug him every weekend when he was out mowing the lawn. Thing is, veneer is usually attached to a wood frame or sheathing, so it expands and contracts differently from solid brick walls - especially in climates with big temperature swings.
Real brick walls are definitely sturdier in the long run, but like you mentioned, the upfront cost can be tough to swallow. If you do go veneer, make sure whoever installs it leaves proper expansion joints and uses good-quality mortar. That can help reduce cracking down the line. As for insulation fixes... honestly, sometimes it's worth bringing in someone who knows what they're doing rather than DIY-ing it and hoping for the best.
Totally agree on the cracking issue - seen it happen way too often myself. Another thing people overlook is moisture management. Brick veneer systems rely heavily on proper drainage and vapor barriers behind the wall. If that's not done right, you're asking for mold or water damage down the road. Real brick walls, although pricier, handle moisture naturally better and give you fewer headaches long-term. Honestly, if budget allows, I'd always recommend going full brick... fewer regrets later on.
Good points on moisture management and drainage - definitely key considerations. A couple more things come to mind:
- How do real brick walls stack up in terms of insulation compared to veneer setups? I've heard mixed opinions on thermal performance.
- Maintenance-wise, is there really less upkeep with solid brick over the long haul? I know veneers can be finicky, but solid brick isn't exactly maintenance-free either...
Curious if anyone's had direct experience comparing the two over a longer period.
"Maintenance-wise, is there really less upkeep with solid brick over the long haul?"
Good question - my parents' old place had solid brick walls, and honestly, they weren't exactly maintenance-free. Repointing mortar every decade or so adds up... Wonder how veneer compares cost-wise in the long run?
That's a fair point about repointing - it's definitely something people overlook. From what I've seen, veneer can have its own headaches too, like moisture getting trapped behind the brick layer... and then you're dealing with mold or rot issues. Cost-wise, veneer might save you upfront, but I wonder if those hidden problems could balance things out over time. Seems like there's no clear winner here, just trade-offs depending on your priorities.
Good points raised here, but honestly, if veneer is done right - with proper drainage and flashing - it can hold up pretty well. I've seen plenty of veneer jobs last decades without mold issues. Still, nothing beats the charm of solid brick, headaches and all...depends how much hassle you're willing to embrace, haha.
"Still, nothing beats the charm of solid brick, headaches and all...depends how much hassle you're willing to embrace, haha."
True, there's something uniquely appealing about solid brick - especially as it ages and develops that beautiful patina. But I'm curious, has anyone here successfully blended brick veneer and real brick in a single project? Wondering if mixing both could strike a balance between practicality and charm, or if it'd just end up looking mismatched...
"Wondering if mixing both could strike a balance between practicality and charm, or if it'd just end up looking mismatched..."
I've seen it done successfully a few times, but it really hinges on how carefully you match the veneer to the original brick. The key is consistency in color tone and mortar style - if those are off, even slightly, it can look awkward. One project I worked on involved extending an older brick home with veneer for budget reasons. We spent ages sourcing veneer that matched the original brick's weathered look, and honestly, from a distance you'd never know the difference. Up close though...well, let's just say a keen eye could spot it.
Another thing to consider is placement. If you're blending veneer and solid brick on separate elevations or distinct architectural features (like an addition vs. original structure), it's usually less noticeable than mixing them randomly on the same wall.
So yeah, it's doable - but definitely requires some careful planning and attention to detail to pull off convincingly.